Thursday, December 24, 2009

10 Books I Liked This Year

So I've read a bunch of "best of 2009" book lists, and their two biggest flaws are that, first of all, it's impossible to have read everything published in 2009 (especially by that November deadline when the story went to print!), and second, I've usually read at least one or two things on that list that was "meh" at best.

Here, then, are ten books I read last year (not that came out, though most of it is of a recent vintage) that I liked. They are almost certainly not an exhaustive best of anything list. Also, I'm still reading stuff now in these last seven days of December, and it's possible that eg Tatyana Tolstoy's diary will totally blow everything else away. One hundred fifty pages in, though, I'm doubting it. These are kind of in order but not really, since each has its own charm.

In most cases, my Goodreads reviews of these books are far more detailed and nuanced than the brief summaries here.



Gelly's Recommended Reading List for 2009

10. City of Thieves, David Benioff and This is Where I Leave You, Jonathan Tropper (tie!)

A tie is a copout, but 10 is a wildly arbitrary number and I couldn't decide between the two. Both are lighthearted and hilarious, making serious subject matter (the siege of Leningrad and Nazi horrors, shiva after the death of a family member) a thorough blast to read through. They're not going to win you any points with your pretentious Roth and Pynchon loving friends, but read them in secret if you have to: both are cinematic, fun, quick, and well-written despite not seeming terribly "deep." If you love both of these, check out Josh Bazell's Beat the Reaper which tells the strange tale of a man turned surgeon who joins the witness protection program after joining the mob to avenge his Auschwitz-survivor grandparents' death. All take the Jewish identity theme and run somewhere better with it than last year's Orange finalist, When We Were Bad.

9. The Engineer of Human Souls, Josef Skvorecky

This is an old Czech book, and like all Czech novels it's about a philandering dissident author trying to find meaning through beauty and art etc. Unlike most Czech novels, the protagonist has left for the greener pastures of teaching literature at a small Canadian college. He shares conspiracy theories with his expat friends about the Czech intelligence service watching him, attempts to implant a love for literature in a class of generally brain-dead students, and spends most of his time reminiscing about his Czech youth, which goes from carefree to vulnerable and tragic during the second world war.

There are so many layers of story here and jumps in time, but Skvorecky manages it seamlessly. It's a beautifully told story.

8. Fun Home: A Family Tragicomic, Alison Bechdel

I've read many graphic novels in the last year, but even Maus didn't affect me emotionally as much as the true story of Alison Bechdel's father, whose death the college-aged Alison grieves as she learns more about the secret double life he led. She conveys his love of literature and troubled relationship with his family sensitively and compellingly.

7. Into the Beautiful North, Luis Alberto Urrea

An amazing story of a road trip from Sinaloa to Illinois and back again, Into the Beautiful North follows protagonist Nayeli's attempt to recruit young men to come back to Mexico to live in her romantically-frustrated village. She takes her two best girlfriends and gay boss Tacho (ironically the only young man left in town) with her, hoping to find and bring back her emigrant father along the way. The novel manages to keep a light tone without shying from addressing poverty, border violence, and the exploitation of Mexicans immigrating to the US.

6. The Lost City of Z, David Grann

The Lost City of Z is the only nonfiction book I'm including here, and it definitely stood out from any potential competition. (2008 seems to have been my year of great nonfiction - Traffic, Fruit Hunters, and A Bottle of Rum were all lovely...2009 seems to have been all about the short story novel!) Grann sets out to understand and explain the disappearance of Amazon explorer Sir Percy Fawcett, while attempting to determine whether the famed lost civilization Fawcett disappeared trying to find really existed. The book's biggest flaw is that it stops, leaving the reader wanting to know much more about what happened to Fawcett. It is, however, a riveting retelling of an old mystery.

5. The White King, György Dragomán

One of those rare attempts at the short story as novel genre that gets it right, The White King follows Djata, a preteen boy growing up in a totalitarian Eastern European country that sounds an awful lot like Ceausescu's Romania, through various episodes of his schoolboy's life while in the background he struggles to find out what has happened to his father, who has been removed from the family home as a political prisoner. Dragomán successfully portrays the absurdity of a society where every aspect of life is tightly controlled by higher authorities; the stories reminded me simultaneously of both Viktor Pelevin and Lord of the Flies.

4. Wolf Hall, Hilary Mantel

This year's Booker winner can't be described without the word "ambitious," something the author and the protagonist Thomas Cromwell share in abundance. One of the most detailed historical novels I've read, Wolf Hall is fictionalized but kept carefully in line with the historical record; Mantel mostly fills in the gaps to create rich inner lives for all of her characters. There have been many stories told about the court of Henry VIII, but the riveting Wolf Hall reaches a depth that I haven't seen elsewhere.

3. Olive Kitteridge, Elizabeth Strout

Another big prize winner! I am rarely in strong agreement with the Pulitzer committee, but the titular Olive and her little Maine town are rendered so vividly that I can't imagine a more worthy winner (even though I was cheering for finalist Plague of Doves out of all the things I read last year). Olive is not all that likable as a protagonist. Picture me in about forty years: cranky, frumpy, and disappointed in the world, and you've pretty much got her. I've always found the more complex and less sympathetic characters the most interesting, though, and Strout's short story collection, woven together around the town's inhabitants with every other story featuring Olive, creates an admirably multidimensional narrator while exploring the unavoidable lonely indignities of growing old.

2. The Crow Road, Iain Banks

This is another oldie-but-goodie, although The Crow Road has only recently been published in the United States. Other than some unfamiliar Scottish vocabulary ("moroculous"), I can't imagine why. It's a complex and wonderful novel. We meet narrator Prentice McHoan at the funeral of his grandmother after he's spent the last few years of his life being a mostly decent-hearted but generally self-absorbed shiftless prat. In the course of the book he is thoroughly pummeled until he appears to have lost everything, and then he loses more. From these depths he manages to emerge as a somewhat decent person, solving an old family mystery yet realizing that some things are best left buried.

1. 2666, Roberto Bolaño

I had mixed feelings while reading 2666, its nine hundred pages was at times a bit of a slog, and all of the loose threads made it seem to somehow converge upon brilliance while leaving it a hair's width out of reach. It's hard not to wonder what its final form would have been had Bolaño lived to see its publication, and I became skeptical halfway through reading the novel when someone found an apparently previously missing extra section of the book! Still, I'm convinced the loose threads add something. And strangely, it is the kind of book that is still riveting even when an entire major section has apparently gone missing. After all, we're shown the futility of solving some of the mysteries when no one acts on them. The writing is so flowing, and there were a hundred little subplots in which I lost myself enjoying. It's the kind of novel that makes you want to start making charts and lists and taking out atlases and plotting out who was where when and what exactly happened, but border city Mexico is not portrayed as the kind of place where objective truth really matters. Instead we are infused with the flavor of a place.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Obscure Produce Day: Buddha's Hand!


Ever since reading Adam Gollner's wonderful Fruit Hunters, I've made a point to try out new fruits whenever I see them. This week, I encountered a buddha's hand and had to have it (despite the hefty price tag). Common in Asia but rare in my native Midwest, these are a type of citron - a citrus fruit that's almost all peel and pith and no fruit or juice. They don't have the bitter pith that dooms all but the most outer bits of a lemon peel, making them ideal for applications requiring a lot of peel; the fruits also smell great and look terrifying.

Buddha's hand was eventually divided into buddhacello (like limoncello, only with the hand), which is infusing merrily as I write, and Alice Waters's recipe for winter citron salad with fennel, radish, and celery from Chez Panisse Fruit.

Verdict: It's certainly interesting in appearance and the taste, if you like citrus, is lovely--more fragrant and complex than lemons. I'm certainly looking forward to seeing how the buddhacello project turns out. At more than $15 for the fruit, though ($8/pound at Whole Foods), I'm not sure it's worth splurging on more than once.

The Buddha's Hand Salad was rounded out with General Tsofu from the Shun Lee Cookbook, jasmine rice, mushroom buns, and Tsingtao. Updates on buddhacello to follow.


Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Why Newspapers are Failing, p. 2

Oh New York Times. You do a feature on the first woman to reach a top Army position and you fail to notice that the only sexism you've uncovered is your own.

Compare and contrast:




Pop quiz, after you've read them both: How many miscarriages has ADM Stavridis had? Does he have any children? A spouse? What heartwarming stories do we know about sailors he's hugged? Is he petite? Is he imposing? What's his relationship with religion? How about Sgt. Maj. King: what's her educational background? How is her leadership philosophy going to change the command? Of what accomplishments in her professional history is she proud?

Monday, September 21, 2009

Gelmix: Summer 2009

The seasons in San Diego seem to change a lot slower than places farther north, so it was entirely too easy for me to forget to start creating the summer mix until midway into September. We've had a busy summer, much of it spent out of town in various places around the world. That didn't stop the music releases though, and didn't keep me from hearing great new songs. Listeners rave: "it's the toe-tapping-est mix yet!" "I know I've heard this Kanye West song before." "This is the best 50 Cent track I've ever heard!!" "This song is kind of boring."

So I suppose the final result is open to interpretation, and people will hear in it what they will. I for one consider it the hip hop-retro folk-British indie-Latin mix, and it includes what I consider the best music I've heard this summer. You can download some hi-res art for iTunes here, and past mix art is always available in my Flickr set.

Sun Children - Nickodemus (feat. The Real Live Show)
I can't think of a more perfect way to start off a summer mix than New York DJ Nickodemus's upbeat "Sun Children." His Sun People album incorporates influences from all over the world with an incredible diversity throughout the tracks. I particularly like "2 Sips & Magic," "Just Move!," "Brookarest," and "N'Dini." If you still can't get enough, I highly recommend the 10 year anniversary, 2-disc Turntables on the Hudson retrospective.

Say Yes - Wax Tailor (feat. ASM)
French DJ Wax Tailor has put together an amazing album; In The Mood for Life was released just days after the Summer Mix shipped, and once I had a chance to listen to the whole thing I realized there were several tracks that could have easily made the summer mix cut, but I love "Say Yes," which to me sounds a little like Jurassic 5. I'm also particularly fond of "B-Boy on Wax," "No Pity," "Dry Your Eyes," "Until Heaven Stops the Rain," "Leave It," "This Train," "Sit and Listen," and "Fireflies." If you buy only one DJ/hiphop album this summer, this is the one to keep your stereo warm until the new RJD2 vinyl boxed set comes out in October.

Grind Til I Die - SPAID (feat. B.G., JR Brown)
So far I've had listening friends and family mistake SPAID for a number of much better-known rappers, but he's actually a promising hiphop artist from the Bronx. Or, in his own words, "To his surprised the audience was highly fascinated by his entertainment. This wasn’t an enigma; SPAID knew with morsel practice he could reach the inaccessible." Clearly he's practiced his morsels.

Hiphop fans who don't mind a little repetition should also definitely check out Troublemaker's remix of Matt & Kim's "Daylight" with De La Sol.

Pon de Floor - Major Lazer (feat. VYBZ Kartel)
The name Major Lazer is new, but this is the latest project from Philly's always-notable DJ Diplo and M.I.A. producer DJ Switch. Influences here are a sort of cross between M.I.A./Santogold style electronic dance and dancehall reggae, with a splash of later Tricky thrown in. The result is Gunz Dont Kill People, Lazers Do, a thoroughly listenable release with some standout tracks like "Can't Stop Now," "Anything Goes," and "Jump Up."

Big or Small - Fresh Espresso
Fresh Espresso is Seattle's latest hip hop collaboration to get a lot of attention, and like the Blue Scholars, Common Market, and others before them, they've got a great mellow sound. I nearly put "Girls and Fast Cars" on the mix until Brent convinced me that "Big or Small" was a catchier choice, but those are only a couple of the good tracks on their "Glamour" debut.

Save My Soul/Changing - The Moondoggies
The Moondoggies' Don't Be a Stranger was released last year but I missed hearing about the Seattle band until I heard the live medley of "Save My Soul" and "Changing" on the most recent KEXP Live compilation. They seem to be a band that needs the lightest of hands in production; don't miss the spare but lovely "Undertaker."

Far and Wide - Roadside Graves
Another great band that straddles the folk, rock, and country lines and calls to mind influences from a couple generations ago, New Jersey's Roadside Graves have released a very listenable album. Check out "Ruby," the quiet "Wooden Walls," or the ever-so-slightly reminiscent of Irish pub music "The Snake and How it Lost Its Legs."

The Box - Johnny Flynn and the Sussex Wit
British folk singer Johnny Flynn's A Larum is a fun album, and I think "The Box" fits right in here. The British set a high bar for their folk (the Independent labels him one of an overabundance of "boarding school folkies" (albeit one of the best) while the Times declares that he was signed "more for his looks than his originality." Regardless, if Johnny Flynn is going to lead a British folk revival movement, I am not going to oppose him.

Black River Killer - Blitzen Trapper
Sub Pop artists generally tend to be a little hit or miss for me, but Portland's Blitzen Trapper are definitely the former. "Black River Killer" was released on last year's Furr, but this summer it's been made the star of its very own EP. I love the track's great retro feel, though its entertaining narrative leaves me wondering why prisons would keep giving murderers weapons upon their departure.

Fresh Blood - Eels
Prolific and rotating-door-membership band The Eels have a host of releases under their belt, and have appeared in a previous gelmix (unshared, from 2005 when gradual school sucked away my time and soul) with "Whatever Happened to Soy Bomb." But never mind that; here they sound totally different. "Fresh Blood," off June's Hombre Lobo, is a haunting, vampiric, catchy track that I adore.

Freak Out - Stellastarr*
New York City's Stellastarr* remind me of some of the energetic early-'90s bands I used to like, like Ned's Atomic Dustbin and Sugar. "Freak Out" is, in my mind, the definite highlight of their recent Civilized, but like the releases from those '90s bands I have a feeling that it's the kind of album where every listener will find something different to love.

Blow Away - A Fine Frenzy
There aren't a lot of female musicians on this mix, unfortunately, but Los Angeles singer Alison Sudol, who recently released Bomb in a Birdcage, is a fortunate exception. I think fans of Feist will like this one; I picked "Blow Away" for its upbeat cheerfulness, but "What I Wouldn't Do" also deserves to be heard as well.

Ecstatic Appeal - Jemina Pearl
Jemina Pearl is a refugee from recently disbanded Be Your Own Pet, and from the lyrics of her upcoming solo release it seems like she's still coping with the loss. She's turned the band's breakup into some great work, though, including a must-hear collaboration with Iggy Pop called "I Hate People." I am looking forward to October's surprisingly titled Break It Up.

Crush On You - brakesbrakesbrakes
Known in their native Brighton as Brakes but renamed due to a tragic namespace conflict in the US, brakesbrakesbrakes released Touchdown this spring and are already finishing up their next album, written and recorded during their ongoing tour. I love their sound (give "Oh! Forever" a listen) and their lyrics (see also "Ancient Mysteries"), and can't wait until they come to town. Mark your calendars, Chicago kiddies, that's October 12 at the Empty Bottle and we're going. (I'll throw in We Were Promised Jetpacks and the Twilight Sad to sweeten the deal) I love this quirky track, which I downloaded, threw onto a CD of random recent stuff before flying out to Chicago this summer, and then fell in love with while driving around the lake.

Nocturne for an Absentee - De Rosa
Another British band, De Rosa put out a fantastic album this spring, Prevention; don't get too attached to it, though, because the band broke up a month later. Do, however, listen to the lovely "Under the Stairs."

Infinity - The xx
It's ridiculously rare that Pitchfork and I agree on what a great new album is, but London's the xx have managed to do it. Their self-titled debut is one of my favorite new CDs. "Crystallized" and "Basic Space" have already been released as competent singles, but "Infinity" is my favorite track, though you would be remiss to ignore "Islands" and "Stars." Despite "Infinity's" claustrophobic, smugly monogamist lyrics, how can you not love their quiet, haunting sound?

Equivocado - DePedro
Depedro is the solo project of Calexico collaborator Jairo Zavala, and I love the recent self-titled album's sound. Be sure to listen to "Don't Leave Me Now."

Siempre Nuevo - Federico Aubele
Argentina's Federico Aubele has released a gorgeous album with Amatoria, full of Spanish style ballads that work great for both attentive listening and gorgeous background music to your day. I think he's got a fantastic voice. In addition to "Siempre Nuevo" I also really enjoy "Suena Mi Guitarra," "Otra Vez," "Este Amor," and "Del Ayer."

Friday, September 11, 2009

What I found in my Box (a post in which our protagonist self-indulgently posts a bunch of photos of food)

I've joined CSAs in the Seattle area, Amsterdam, and most recently San Diego. It's always fascinating to me how they differ from area to area--the growing season, vegetable variety, etc. It's about culture as much as biology; for example, my Dutch CSA gave me no fewer than two varieties of cabbage every week. There were even cabbages that I don't even know the English names for, like the intimidating spitskool.

Here in California the season for certain fruits and vegetables seems to stretch on and on. We've been getting zucchinis nearly every week for months now. It's a fun challenge to try to find new uses for the items we find each week in the box. Giant reed avocados, red onions, cilantro, and tomatoes made for yet another batch of guac, which made for lovely eating watching the Bears trounce the Broncos (suck it Orton). Since the week also brought super-sweet, deliciously ripe watermelons, I made a treat we enjoyed in Istanbul - Karpuz Margaritas!!

My latest zucchini treatment appears here in a sambar. I was thrilled to stumble across an Indian grocery store here in San Diego, where we found everything from refrigerated dosa batter to mango lassis to obscure produce to oils etc. etc. etc. I love me some Indian grocery store, and since I usually don't have time to drive up to a Patel Bros when I'm back in Chicago, it was nice to find it. Reheated frozen idli and a super-easy green bean poriyal rounded out the meal, leaving it
only about 5 dishes short of what would be served for a meal in India.

Both dishes came from Chandra Padmanabhan's excellent Dakshin cookbook, which any lover of vegetarian South Indian food is bound to enjoy.

I was thrilled last week to receive two new cookbooks in the mail, along with my new Tofu Squozer, which has been getting rave reviews on blogs and veg magazines throughout the land. It's a nifty little device that squeezes the water out of tofu, saving you the trouble of doing so via the old fashioned towels and heavy objects method.

Immediately I put squozer and book to work by making a variation on the "Ying Yang salad with peanut-sesame dressing" out of the Real Food Daily cookbook. My version was a leafy green salad with carrots, red spring onions, and radishes. These were mixed with the marinated ginger baked tofu chunks and a delicious peanut dressing. I have long been a fan of the RFD restaurant in Santa Monica and am giving their cookbook tentative raves as well.

Peanut-sesame dressing and Ginger Tofu (my adaptation)

Ingredients
Ginger Tofu
1 14 ounce brick firm tofu
1/3 cup soy sauce
2 T brown rice vinegar
2 T. dark sesame oil
1 T. minced garlic
1 T. minced ginger

Dressing
2/3 c. peanut butter
1/4 c. brown rice vinegar
1/4 c. maple syrup
3 T. water
1 T. minced fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1/4 t. crushed red pepper flakes
1 c. fresh cilantro leaves

Directions
1. Press tofu block in tofu squozer for 1 hour. Drain liquid and put the tofu aside to mix marinade inside squozing chamber.

2. In squozing chamber, mix remaining ginger marinade ingredients (soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, ginger, garlic). Throw the tofu block back in and marinate for several hours. Reserve marinade!!!

3. Bake the tofu at 400 F for 10 minutes on each side (20 min. total). Remove from the oven, cool, and store in refrigerator until ready to dice to add to salad.

4. To make dressing, strain reserved tofu marinade into blender jar, discarding ginger and garlic chunks. To the reserved liquid, add remaining dressing ingredients and blend.




Finally, I used up about 5 pounds of cucumbers making lots and lots of dill pickles. Pickles are easy and a useful way to preserve an intimidating CSA amount of cucumbers.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

The Vegan Charcuterie Project: Gyros

Faced with ripe heirloom tomatoes and cucumbers in the CSA box and wanting to bring Brentje dinner at work, I turned my attention to a dish I used to enjoy as a wee gelsprog: gyros! My mom used to get a little kit at the grocery store that had pita breads, seasoned lamb, and cucumber sauce. I've made veggie gyros before, mostly from Joanne Stepaniak's recipe in Vegan Vittles. These recipes usually involve sauteeing strips of seitan or tempeh in herbs and spices, and they work well enough, but in the gyros I remembered, the meat is already seasoned when it's cooked, so the flavor is present throughout. Since I had to make the seitan from scratch anyway, why not?

I decided to use the foil-wrapped, steam method of making the seitan instead of baking it, which would probably have worked just fine as well. The cylinder o' seitan reminds me of those weirdly enthralling, creepy rotating meat on a stick warmers at Doner Kebab places, and maybe some day I can spring for one of these home models.

In any case, Brentje ate about 2/3 of the gyro meat on three pitas for dinner, so I'm going to call the project a success.



GYROS

Ingredients

For Seitan
1/2 c. cooked beans (I used navy, but other choices will work)
1 c. unsalted homemade vegetable stock*
1 T. vegetable oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 t. salt
3/4 t. dried marjoram
1/2 t. ground coriander
1/2 t. coarsely ground black pepper
1/4 t. dried savory
1/4 t. dried thyme
1/2 t. dried rosemary, crushed
1/8 c. nooch

To assemble
Pita breads
ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges
cucumbers, seeded, peeled, and sliced thickly
cucumber sauce (see below)

Directions
1. Prepare steamer and bring water to a boil. Lay out one large sheet of aluminum foil.

2. Mash beans with a fork. Mix in other ingredients through nooch. Mix in gluten and taste for seasoning.

3. Form dough into one large log shape, roll in aluminum foil, and twist ends. Steam for 1 hour, 15 minutes.

4. Let cool for about an hour. Make cucumber sauce while seitan is cooling. Then, slice thinly into strips. Assemble pitas, splitting the seitan, tomatoes, and cucumbers among each gyro and topping with cucumber sauce. (Or, if you're on the go, wrap up the sandwiches in foil without sauce and pack the cucumber sauce separately.)

Cucumber Sauce: I don't use a very strict recipe for this, but rather take about 1/2 c. soy yogurt, and combine with a few tablespoons of vegan mayo, about 1/2 t. onion powder, a pinch of salt, and some freshly ground pepper. Mix in about half a cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced. If the sauce is too thick, add some plain soymilk or water.

* The unsalted stock adds some flavor and color. If you don't have any, throw in a small amount of Kitchen Bouquet browning sauce to make the seitan a palatable color

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Why Newspapers are Failing

From the front page of today's New York Times:
In Khazna, the explosions left two large craters in different sections of the village. One was filled with water mixed with blood. Witnesses said the explosions burst the village’s water main. The chassis and big wheel of what appeared to have been one of the trucks used in the attack lay atop leveled houses. In what looked like the village’s main road, storefronts were ripped up, and destroyed vehicles were tossed everywhere. ("Truck Bombs Turn Iraqi Village Near Mosul into Rubble")
What looked like the village's main road? Are they sending in reporters, or looking at the town on Google Earth?

More nonreporting:
In recent weeks, the authorities have managed to catch three of the 53 escapees from May and have thrown 51 prison officials, including the director, into jail while the investigation into collusion in the escape continues. The prime piece of evidence against the prison employees was the surveillance system they were supposed to use to monitor inmates. The video, leaked by law enforcement officials and now available on YouTube, recorded the jailbreak in detail. ("War Without Borders - Mexico's Drug Traffickers Continue Trade in Prison")
It's very reassuring that the intrepid reporters at the New York Times are watching videos on YouTube all day so that you don't have to do so. If only they'd tell us how many google hits turn up when you search for "Mexican Drug Trafficking," we could truly understand the situation.